Diamond Setting Service for Watches
Our workshop is specialise in the art of watch diamond setting — turning exceptional timepieces into breathtaking statements of luxury with natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds or precious gemstones.
Whether you would like to set diamonds on your Rolex, Cartier, or another high-end watch, our in-house team work with the utmost care to integrate diamonds seamlessly, enhancing both beauty and value.
From selecting top VVS to VS diamond to invisible setting or to intricate techniques, every detail is managed with mastery. This isn't just about jewellery — it's about crafting legacy and understanding the secret of customisation of your timepiece.
Diamond-set watches are more than luxurious—they're expressive, trendy and unique. Whether commemorating a milestone or building a collection, a bespoke diamond watch adds meaning to every moment you wear it. Our clients choose diamond settings or any stones to set on their watch:
- Celebrate anniversaries or achievements
- Reflect their unique taste and personality
- Customise your watch
- Elevate prestige with subtle or bold brilliance
- You are into music and you want this service for a video
- You want make look your watch factory set
The Fusion of Horology and Craft: Inside the Diamond Setting Process
Creating a diamond-set watch requires exceptional craftsmanship, combining the skills of both a master jeweller, master watch polisher to prep watches, stone setter and horologist (watchmaker). You are in the right place. At Jewellery Watch Repairs and Restoration London, we're not just versatile in all aspects of precious metal restoration, heritage timepieces servicing, and stone setting for both watches and jewellery. We have multiple skills within our trade, and we've mastered everything we do.
Let's explain to you the process for setting stone on your watch as it's very important to understand the different steps
We begin with a personal consultation, so please make sure to book an appointment to visit our London Hatton Garden Workshop — in person or send us your request via email or whatsapp — to discuss your preferences, style, budget, and goals. From understated elegance to full pavé brilliance, we explore different types of settings to customize your watch and help design the perfect aesthetic.
Pictures, ideas, or references from different sources will help us guide you to the most desirable and luxurious diamond-set watch. The number of diamonds or precious stones that will be set on the watch, the types of setting techniques used, and the metal composition of the watch are all important factors to understand, as the price will fluctuate based on these elements and the price per carat of any stones selected. Most of the time, we will need to hold the watch for around 24 hours for some time to perform calculations, especially in terms of budget, to provide you with a secure and accurate quotation.
Assessment Period
Most of the time, we will need to hold the watch for around 24 hours to perform calculations when it comes to the number of stones that we are going to set, as there exist so many sizes of diamonds and it's a precise job (1mm, 1.1mm, 1.2mm, 1.3mm etc). This careful assessment, especially in terms of budget, allows us to provide you with a secure and accurate quotation.
What We Discuss
- Your Vision — The aesthetic you wish to achieve, from subtle accent diamonds to full coverage
- Stone Selection — Natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, or coloured precious stones
- Setting Style — Pavé, channel, bezel, invisible, or bead settings
- Budget Parameters — We work within your budget to maximise impact
- Timeline — Realistic timeframes based on complexity
- Watch Assessment — Evaluating the suitability of your timepiece for customisation
Natural Diamond as Best Option
Every natural diamond will be sorted based on its cut, colour, clarity, and carat. Our standard selection includes G colour diamonds with VS or SI clarity, offering exceptional brilliance and value.
For clients with more specific preferences, we can also provide higher-grade stones, such as D colour or Baguette diamonds, upon request.
- Investment value
- Natural rarity
- Strong resale market
- Traditional luxury appeal
Lab Diamond as Budget Option
Lab-grown diamonds offer an excellent alternative for clients seeking the brilliance of diamonds at a more accessible price point. These diamonds are chemically and optically identical to natural diamonds but created in laboratory.
Important Note
There is currently no strong secondary market for lab-grown diamonds in watches or not at all. For clients who plan to enjoy their timepiece for years to come rather than as an investment, resale value will likely be significantly lower than watches set with natural diamonds.
- Cost-effective option
- Identical appearance
- Ethical sourcing
- Larger stones possible
When the designs, the types of setting, the stones (diamonds or colored stones) have been chosen, and the cost has been agreed with the client, the first and primordial step is taking each component apart by our in-house watchmaker.
BackCase Dismantling types
The case back must be carefully removed, which can involve different techniques depending on the watch case design:
- Screw-down case backs — Common in Rolex these have notches that require a specialized case wrench tool for removal or sometime simply a sticky ball
- Integrated case designs — Some luxury watches have integrated designs where the case back is part of a more complex disassembly process. Cartier models like the Santos and Ballon Bleu are prime examples. Our French luxury timepiece specialists have extensive experience with these intricate designs.
- Exhibition case backs — Transparent or partially transparent case backs that allow you to view the watch movement. Typically secured with small screws around the perimeter or as a screw-down exhibition back.
Gold Ballon Bleu Example
This is an example of a Gold Ballon Bleu where 8 screws are on the case back. Uncasing can be challenging and should be done by a professional watchmaker. The screw placement requires precise Swiss screwdrivers and sharps, also a specific technique is implemented to avoid damaging the gold case or the screws themselves.
Bezels That Can Typically Be Dismantled by Watch Technicians
- Press-fit bezels — Found on most Rolex Oyster and Rolex President models, removed with specific tools like the Horotec Watch Bezel Remover Tool.
- Screwed bezels — Secured with small screws around the perimeter, common in Hublot, Cartier, Richard Mille models.
- Rotating Bezel ring systems — Watches like the Rolex GMT-Master or certain TAG Heuer models.
- Modular construction bezels — Found in Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, secured with screws from the caseback side.
This is another example of a Cartier watch, which is the Cartier Roadster quartz movement ladies model.
Cartier Roadster case re-assembled after diamond setting to check
Cartier Roadster finished with diamond bezel
Bezels That Cannot Typically Be Dismantled
Swiss watchmakers, always creating exceptions in watch designs and engineering when it comes to the watch case (carrure) or bezel (lunette in Swiss horological terminology). These exceptions include:
Let's understand how these luxury watches are made firstly. Watch designers in Switzerland use specific programs to make models in 3D CAD using software called SolidWorks (by Dassault), which is a French software for making even aeronautics parts.
Then the engineers using CNC, which stands for Computer Numerical Control, will work with these very sophisticated tools which can operate on up to 5 axes. They call this process "Usinage" or "fraisage" in Switzerland.
Let's mention those interesting cases where bezels are fixed or mounted to the watch in ways that present special challenges for stones setting:
CNC Integrated case-bezel Fabrication
Certain high-end pieces where the bezel and case are machined from a single piece of metal, making separation impossible without damaging the watch.
Welded or permanently fixed bezels
Some manufacturers permanently affix bezels using welding or specialized adhesives, particularly in water-resistant models.
Ceramic monobloc bezels
Some modern luxury watches feature one-piece ceramic bezels that cannot be customized for diamond setting.
Removing Watch Clasps and Buckles
The beauty of horology and watchmaking is that each brand has their own type of watch securing bracelet mechanism. Clasps have unique dismantling requirements and specific areas that may be suitable for diamond setting or setting stones.
Deployant Clasp or Butterfly Clasp
Found on many luxury watches like Cartier or JLC (Jaeger-LeCoultre). It folds in the middle and opens like butterfly wings when released.
Folding Clasp
Used by Rolex on their Oyster bracelets. Features a folding mechanism with a safety catch that snaps over the main clasp.
Double Deployant Clasp
Found on many Omega watches (Seamaster watches), or Corum watches. Has two folding sections for added security.
Tang Buckle
The traditional pin buckle which looks like a belt for trouser clothing design, often found on leather straps of high-end watches like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.
Hidden Deployant Clasp
Again used by Cartier on models like the Santos, where the clasp mechanism is concealed for a cleaner look.
H-type deployant clasp
Specifically for Hublot with their signature H design
Trigger-Release Deployant
Used by brands like Breitling or even Blancpain, featuring push-button releases on both sides of the clasp.
Bracelet Extension Clasp
Found on Panerai and some Tudor models, allowing for quick adjustment of the bracelet length.
Each of these steps must be implemented and fully respected for this specialized watch service. Once the watch dismantled, the dial, hands and watch movement are set aside and well protected against dust in a special container then the next step will follow the watch polishing and prep.
Remove glass or sapphire from the watch case
Obviously in order to set diamonds on the watch, the glass or sapphire MUST be taken out of the watch, avoiding the glass breaking during the setting process. The watch case is subjected to high temperature or high pressure while drilling. The glass or sapphire is then kept with the movement. This step must be carefully done, as many types of glass are mounted into different watches, bezels, and gaskets.
All those previous steps are very important to consider during the setting process. After thorough assessment, your watch gets "stripped" and before any stone is set, the watch case anatomy is fully and carefully disassembled. Each component of your watch will get sanded or buffed, polished and cleaned according to specific requirements based on the watch brands for instance Rolex or Cartier to name those famous brands that have parts of the watch case which are high polish or matte finish.
Here are the steps:
| Watch Condition | Metal Types | Case Study Process | Steps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Watches Requiring Restoration | Yellow Gold / White Gold / Rose Gold / Stainless Steel / Titanium | Watch Case Restoration before customisation | 1. Check the watch case for any marks or dents under loupe or microscope 2. Clean the entire watch in ultrasonic cleaner and steamer 3. In cases where there are dents or holes on the case, these are filled with appropriate metal using laser welding 4. Following this, the metal which has been added is carefully sanded, buffed then polished 5. Professional skills are required to be able to execute this technique 6. The watch case, bezel, bracelet, and buckle are then polished, lapped and matte finished 7. The watch case is again cleaned in ultrasonic and then steam cleaned and dried 8. Each watch anatomy can differ; too many cases to be implemented in a single approach |
| Watches Requiring Polishing | Yellow Gold / White Gold / Rose Gold / Stainless Steel / Titanium | Watch Case Polishing before customisation | 1. Watch case has to be checked under the loupe for any marks, metal scratches or disappearance of the polishing patterns 2. The watch case from bezel to strap buckle gets cleaned using ultrasonic tank 3. Then all watch cases get fully polished and lapped in accordance with the type of polishing pattern 4. Same and last process, the bezel, the case, the bracelet and buckle have to be deep cleaned in the ultrasonic bath then steam cleaned and dried |
| Premium Timepieces (Mint Condition) | Yellow Gold / White Gold / Rose Gold / Stainless Steel / Titanium | Watch Case Preparation (Mint Condition) | 1. The only step will be to steam and ultrasonically clean the entire watch case and then steam and dry. As the watch is in good condition or brand new with no marks on the metal or dents, it will be easier for the setter to set the stones. |
Our conclusion on this important process
This is another example where the complementary skills of the watch and jewellery trades are linked. The polisher, the setter, the mounter and the watchmaker must work together precisely – that's why it's important to use a jewellery repair workshop and watch repair workshop that is able to handle both serious tasks professionally.
Setting Stones on Watch
Diamond Setting by Stone Setter on Timepiece
Once all those important steps and tasks for metal preparation that we have described earlier are complete.
Tools for Setting Stones on Watches and Jigs used in our workshop:
- Swiss shellac or "Thermo-Loc" GRS holding compound — Watch cases are set into a Swiss shellac or "Thermo-Loc" GRS holding compound that is used to secure watch items for more stability when setting.
- Various jigs — Various jigs are used for holding pieces, which can also be rotated to many angles for optimal working positions.
- Leica microscope — The type of microscope that we use is a Leica, a German brand with the best lenses. This binocular microscope is a MUST for precision setting.
- GRS engraver pneumatic tools — GRS engraver pneumatic tools work with air pressure to engrave the watch. Setting marks in metal, making grains for pavé settings.
- Drilling bits and ball round burr — For round stones such as diamonds, we first use drilling bits and then a ball round burr.
A) Drilling Metal for Setting Stones on Watches
Watch in Gold or Stainless Steel:
- Marking the watch metals with pencil, marker, Ceramic Scribe Pen or metallic markers, and then marking for the setter using a divider (which gives accurate spacing between stones)
- Then the casing of the watch is drilled in accordance with the size of the stones, with holes always made a bit smaller so the stones fit securely
- Even drill bits will be chosen depending on the metal that needs to be drilled; for example, on gold, platinum (precious metals), the diamond setter will use steel drill bits. On stainless steel, the setter will use carbide bits.
Type Of Setting that we do on Watches
Bead setting (grain)
Small diamonds held in place by beads of metal
Channel setting
Diamonds secured between two metal walls
Pavé setting
A surface covered with small stones
Invisible setting
No visible metal between stones, for a seamless effect
Type of stone what we can set on watches?
Watch in Stainless Steel
- 1. Diamonds
- 2. Lab grow Diamond
- 3. Sapphire
- 4. Tsavorite garnets – vibrant green
- 5. Rubies
- 6. Topaz
- 7. Amethyst
Watch in Titanium
- 1. Diamonds
- 2. Lab grow Diamond
- 3. Sapphire
- 4. Tsavorite garnets – vibrant green
- 5. Rubies
- 6. Topaz
- 7. Amethyst
Watch in Gold, Rose & Platinum
- 1. Diamonds
- 2. Lab-grown diamonds
- 3. Sapphires
- 4. Tsavorite garnets
- 5. Rubies
- 6. Topaz
- 7. Amethyst
- 8. Emeralds
- 9. Tanzanite
- 10. Aquamarine
- 11. Morganite
- 12. Opal
- 13. Pearl
- 14. Turquoise
Once setting is complete, your watch is reassembled by a trained watch technician, ensuring all components function perfectly. A final quality control stage includes testing, polishing and clean up (last touch), and a detailed inspection of the diamond setting or stone setting job to check if each stone is secured with the metal.
2-Year Warranty
We include a 2-year warranty on all custom diamond work and stone setting (coloured stones) for your peace of mind. Just to be clear, we must ensure you understand that your watch after customisation won't be water resistant due to the process of drilling the case.
As the premier specialist for bespoke watch customisation in London UK, we offer expertise that goes beyond standard modifications. Your timepiece can become something truly distinctive through our skilled setting techniques.
Common customisation options:
Bezel diamond setting
Full circle or half-circle options with round brilliant or baguette-cut diamonds.
Case & lug setting
Precision-set diamonds around the watch body and between lugs.
Bracelet setting
Options for Rolex (Oyster, Jubilee or President) bracelets and Cartier and AP in precious metal.
Dial customisation
Add diamonds directly to indices or across the dial face.
We follow a bespoke order approach to integrity — no shortcuts, no compromise.
Watch customisation Options Beyond Diamonds
While diamonds are the crown jewel of watch enhancements, we also offer other bespoke services, including:
- Gemstone bezels (rubies, sapphires, emeralds)
- Bracelet stones setting
- Custom engravings
- Clasp diamond setting
- Black DLC with Black Diamond setting
- Full watch bussdown diamond
Setting Stones on the watch case and bracelet
We only set diamonds or gems stones on solid metal surfaces such as:
Carbon Cases Not Suitable
Carbon cases are not suitable for stone setting because the material is brittle and prone to cracking when drilled or worked on with burrs and other setting tools.
Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu
Probably the only one in the market set with diamonds
Corum Golden Bridge
Custom diamond bezel setting
Roger Dubuis Excalibur
Diamond-set case and lugs
Audemars Piguet
Edward Piguet Chronograph with diamonds
Global Service & Shipping
While based in London, our diamond watch setting service extends internationally. We proudly serve customers from:
UK
Complete coverage with Royal Mail special delivery (fully insured)
Europe
Contact us via WhatsApp or email with watch photos
International
NYC, Miami, Paris, Milan, Amsterdam, Dubai via FedEx, UPS, or DHL
Why Choose Our Service
Experience
Decades of combined horological and jewelry expertise
Quality
2-year warranty on all diamond setting work
Uniqueness
Specialists in rare models like Piaget Altiplano Double Jeu
Competitive Pricing
Best rates guaranteed for premium diamond setting services
Make your timepiece a unique masterpiece. Get in touch with our London workshop today to discuss your diamond watch customization.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you set diamonds on any watch brand?▼
We can set diamonds on most luxury watch brands including Rolex, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Hublot, TAG Heuer, Omega, and many more. However, certain watches with ceramic bezels or carbon cases are not suitable for diamond setting as these materials are brittle and can crack during drilling.
What happens if a stone falls out after setting?▼
All our diamond setting work comes with a 2-year warranty. If a stone becomes loose or falls out within this period due to workmanship, we will replace and reset it free of charge. However, damage caused by impact, misuse, or third-party tampering is not covered.
Will my watch still be water resistant after diamond setting?▼
No, your watch will no longer be water resistant after diamond setting. The drilling process required to set stones penetrates the case, which compromises the water-tight seal. We always ensure clients understand this before proceeding.
How long does the diamond setting process take?▼
The timeframe depends on the complexity of the work. A simple bezel setting may take 1-2 weeks, while a full "bussdown" (complete case, bezel, and bracelet) can take 3-6 weeks.
Do you service the watch movement as well?▼
Yes, we offer full movement servicing as an additional service. In fact, we recommend servicing if your watch hasn't been maintained in the last 3-5 years. Since the watch is already dismantled for diamond setting, it's the perfect opportunity for a complete service.
What's the difference between natural and lab-grown diamonds for watches?▼
Both are chemically identical and visually indistinguishable. Natural diamonds hold their value and have a strong resale market, making them ideal for investment pieces. Lab-grown diamonds cost significantly less but have virtually no resale value.
Can you work on vintage or antique watches?▼
Yes, we have extensive experience with heritage timepieces and understand the unique challenges they present. Vintage watches often have thinner cases and more delicate components requiring extra care.
Do you offer international shipping for diamond setting services?▼
Yes, we serve clients worldwide. UK customers can use our fully insured Royal Mail special delivery service. For Europe and international clients, we arrange secure shipping via FedEx, UPS, or DHL.
Can you repair a diamond watch with loose or missing stones?▼
Absolutely. We specialise in diamond watch repair, including tightening loose stones, replacing missing diamonds, and rebuilding worn prongs. Whether your watch is factory-set by Rolex, Cartier, or Audemars Piguet, or it's a custom aftermarket piece, our stone setters can restore it to perfect condition.
Do you repair factory-set diamond watches from Rolex and other luxury brands?▼
Yes, we repair factory-set diamond watches from all major luxury brands in-house, including Rolex Datejust, Day-Date, Cartier Ballon Bleu, Santos, Panthère, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, Hublot Big Bang, and many more.
Can you re-set all the diamonds on my watch?▼
Yes, we offer full diamond re-setting services. This involves carefully removing all stones, inspecting and repairing the settings, then re-setting each diamond securely. We can also upgrade your stones to higher quality diamonds during the re-setting process if desired.
Can you repair a custom or aftermarket diamond watch?▼
Yes, we repair both factory-set and custom aftermarket diamond watches. If your watch was customised by another jeweller and now needs repair, we can assess the quality of the original work and make necessary repairs.
Can you replace coloured gemstones on my watch, not just diamonds?▼
Yes, we work with all precious and semi-precious gemstones including sapphires, rubies, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, amethyst, topaz, and more. We also repair watches with rainbow bezels and multi-coloured stone settings.
How much does diamond watch repair cost?▼
The cost depends on the type of repair needed. Simple stone tightening starts from a modest fee, while replacing missing diamonds depends on the size and quality of stones required. We provide free assessments and detailed quotes before any work begins.
Ready to Customise Your Timepiece?
Book a consultation at our Hatton Garden workshop to discuss your vision.