In the world of fine jewellery care, two terms frequently appear that might seem interchangeable at first glance: restoration and repair. While both services aim to return a piece to its former glory, the philosophy, techniques, and outcomes differ significantly.
Understanding these differences is crucial for ensuring your treasured pieces receive the appropriate care they deserve.
As specialists in both jewellery repair and restoration at our Hatton Garden workshop, we’ve created this comprehensive guide to help you make informed decisions about the care of your most precious items.
The Fundamental Distinction
The difference between jewellery repair and restoration goes beyond semantics—it reflects two distinct approaches to jewellery care that serve different purposes and address different needs.
Jewellery Repair: Functional Solutions
Jewellery repair focuses primarily on returning a piece to functional condition. It addresses specific issues that affect wearability, security, or basic appearance. Repairs typically involve straightforward procedures to fix broken elements or replace worn components.
The goal of repair work is practical: to make the item secure, safe, and wearable again with minimal intervention. Modern techniques and materials are commonly employed to achieve efficient, durable results.
Jewellery restoration, by contrast, is a more holistic, preservation-focused approach. It aims to return a piece to its original condition while respecting its history, character, and intrinsic value. Restoration requires a deep understanding of historical techniques, period-appropriate materials, and the aesthetic sensibilities of different eras.
The goal of restoration extends beyond function to include preserving or reviving the piece’s original beauty, craftsmanship, and historical integrity. This process often involves meticulous research, custom fabrication of components, and techniques that may have fallen out of common practice in modern jewellery making.
There’s something profoundly rewarding about repairing a piece of jewellery — something worn, loved, and slightly battered — back to its original glory. Each repair carries a story, whether it’s a ring that no longer fits or a bracelet that’s been resting, broken, at the bottom of a drawer for years. Over time, I’ve come to appreciate these small acts of revival as quiet but meaningful moments in our workshop.
Ring resizing is one of the most common requests. A ring might have belonged to a loved one, passed down through generations — and yet, the fit is just off. Carefully adjusting the band, either widening or reducing it, brings that piece back to the hand it was meant to adorn.
Then there are clasps and catches — tiny mechanisms that make all the difference. Whether it’s a beloved gold chain or a sentimental silver bracelet, a faulty clasp turns everyday wear into a risk. Replacing it means security, confidence, and the joy of wearing it once again.
Chain repairs are delicate work. A single link broken can render a necklace unwearable. We carefully solder those breaks or replace sections entirely, often without a trace of the previous damage — a little act of invisible craftsmanship.
With age, the prongs that hold gemstones can wear down, making stones vulnerable to falling out. Retipping these prongs is like reinforcing the pillars of a home — quiet, essential work that protects the jewel’s heart.
When a stone is lost, the piece feels incomplete. Stone replacement brings back its character. We find a match in cut, clarity, and color — the closest possible tribute to the original. The joy on a client’s face when it’s restored speaks volumes.
Some rings come in so worn that their shanks — the lower band — are thin and fragile. Reinforcing these bands restores strength and balance, ensuring the ring is ready for another chapter of wear.
Metal refinishing is the most visually satisfying repair. Whether it’s polishing out scratches, applying rhodium for that mirror-bright silver finish, or fresh gold plating, the transformation is often dramatic. Suddenly, a dull or tired piece glows again.
Earring posts and backs are often overlooked but vital. If they’re bent, too loose, or missing, earrings just don’t feel safe. Replacing them ensures comfort and security — especially for sentimental favourites worn daily.
Bracelet links often need adjustment too — whether to shorten for a better fit or lengthen slightly with added links. It’s a small detail that makes all the difference in comfort.
And of course, there’s basic cleaning and polishing. A gentle clean can remove years of dirt, oil, and tarnish, revealing the brilliance beneath. Even without major repairs, this alone can make a piece feel new again.
Stories from the Bench – Repairing the Past and Present
Every piece of jewellery that finds its way onto our bench brings a story with it — some freshly written, others passed through decades. Each repair is more than just a technical task; it’s a preservation of memories and a revival of beauty. Here are a few glimpses into the kind of transformations we carry out every week.
A Contemporary Touch-Up
A client recently brought in a white gold engagement ring — modern, elegant, and only about five years old. The diamond still held its fire, but the setting showed signs of everyday life. The once-brilliant rhodium plating had faded, exposing the warmer tone of natural white gold beneath. The prongs, slightly worn from daily wear, posed a subtle risk to the stone’s security.
In this case, our work focused on re-tipping the prongs, carefully rebuilding the claws to keep the diamond tightly in place. We gave the ring a gentle polish to remove surface scratches, then applied a fresh layer of rhodium plating, restoring that crisp, bright white finish. It left our workshop sparkling — not just in appearance, but in sentiment.
Another day, a gentleman walked in with a 1990s marquise-cut diamond ring, a gift from his late wife. It had been tucked away for years, the gold band now dull, the setting a little bent. One prong had broken completely, and the tip of the marquise stone seemed dangerously exposed.
The work here required care and emotion. We rebuilt the broken prong, reinforced the remaining ones, and re-centered the stone with precision. The band was carefully reshaped and polished — bringing back its original curve and luster. Before he left, the client said quietly, “It looks just like the day she gave it to me.” That’s the kind of moment that reminds us why we do what we do.
A Classic from the 1960s
Then, there are pieces that feel like they’ve time-traveled. A young woman came in with her grandmother’s 1960s sapphire and diamond cluster ring — a style that once graced every cocktail party. The sapphires were still deep and velvety, but the setting had loosened, and the once-sharp facets of the diamonds had dulled under layers of time and tarnish.
We performed a full stone check, tightening each claw and replacing one small missing diamond with a near-perfect match. The yellow gold shank had worn thin on the underside, so we rebuilt and reinforced the band, making it comfortable and secure to wear once again. Finally, the entire ring was cleaned, polished, and brightened, leaving a flawless, glowing heirloom — ready for the next generation.
From the Workshop: The Art of Jewellery Restoration
Restoration is something entirely different from repair — it is quieter, deeper, and often far more reverent. When an antique or heirloom arrives at our workbench, it carries not just beauty, but history. It is our role to honour that history — to preserve, not to replace. To restore, not to erase.
Some of our most rewarding work involves reconstructing antique settings. Worn claws on a Victorian diamond cluster, or a missing bezel from a 1920s Art Deco brooch — these are challenges that require knowledge of period-appropriate styles and techniques. We don’t just fix; we step into the shoes of the original craftsman.
Stone replacement in restoration is particularly delicate. It’s never just about finding the same size. We source stones that match the era in cut, hue, and character — Old Mine cuts, Rose cuts, or transitional diamonds, all chosen with precision. The goal? Seamless integration. No one should know a piece was ever incomplete.
Then there’s filigree repair — a test of both patience and hand skill. These fine, lacy patterns, often found in Edwardian or Georgian jewellery, are delicate by nature. When one section collapses or corrodes, we recreate it by hand, wire by wire, ensuring the motif flows uninterrupted.
Some pieces arrive with chipped or faded enamel — intricate detailing common in 19th and early 20th century pieces. Restoring enamel is more than a touch-up. It’s a fine art of colour matching and layered firing. We aim not for perfection, but for authenticity — so the piece keeps its soul.
Often, a faint engraving is the only clue to the story of a ring or pendant. Worn initials, a hidden date, or a poetic inscription — we work with extreme care, gently enhancing without overstepping. The engraving must still feel aged, like it was always there.
In all this work, hallmark preservation is essential. These tiny stamps — the maker’s mark, the assay office, the year — are invaluable to a piece’s identity. Even while performing necessary repairs, we shield these marks from polishing or abrasion.
Not every piece should gleam like new. Some metals carry a story in their patina — a softness, a lived-in warmth that tells you this item has aged gracefully. In such cases, we polish selectively, respecting the finish time has given it.
When required, we turn to forgotten techniques — fusing without solder, hand-cutting bezels, or forging with antique tools — to ensure continuity with the past. We learn from old masters to do justice to their work.
Sometimes, an element is completely missing — a broken clasp, a lost side motif, a detached drop. We don’t “replace” it; we recreate it. Every line, every texture, every solder line echoes the original.
Breathing Life into the Past – Restoration in Practice
There are moments in our workshop in Hatton Garden London that feel more like archaeology than goldsmithing — when a piece comes in not just worn, but weathered by time, memory, and legacy. These are the restorations we remember most.
One particular project began with a velvet-lined box and a quiet story: a Victorian-era brooch, passed down through four generations. At its centre, a regal amethyst, framed by delicate gold filigree and accented with seed pearls, now dulled and incomplete. The filigree had fractured in places. Three pearls were missing. The pin mechanism on the back had snapped decades ago. And the amethyst — once flawless — now bore a small, visible chip.
We began with photographs and detailed notes, documenting every crack, every bend, every void. Restoration always starts with observation — we need to understand what once was, before attempting to revive it.
Next, we turned to history. Our bench jeweller spent time reviewing references on Victorian filigree, noting not only the wire gauge and flow of the design, but also the hand-finishing techniques that gave these antique patterns their graceful irregularity. Using matching gold, we hand-wove and soldered new filigree elements — not to stand out, but to blend into the original story.
The missing seed pearls had to be sourced carefully — not just in size and shape, but in lustre and tone, to match the faded glow of those that remained. Antique pearl dealers offered just the right soft blush.
We then recreated the pin mechanism, referencing Victorian fastening systems: a long, slightly curved pin with hand-forged joints and a subtle tension spring, crafted just as it would have been 150 years ago. Modern brooch fittings simply wouldn’t do.
With the client’s input, we chose to preserve the natural patina of the gold, avoiding aggressive polishing. The tiny dents, the faintest surface oxidation — these were part of its soul.
For the blue sapphire chip, our lapidary specialist. The stone was carefully repolished using traditional hand-wheels, just enough to remove the damage while preserving its original crown height and proportions.
Comparing the Approaches
To further clarify the differences between repair and restoration, consider these key distinctions:
Aspect
Jewellery Repair
Jewellery Restoration
Primary Goal
Repair function and wearability |
Comprehensive assessment and detailed documentation
Typical Timeframe
Hours to days |
Preserves or enhances historical and collector value
Cost Range
Lower to moderate |
Antiques, heirlooms, historically significant pieces
Materials Used
Modern, readily available |
Technical plus historical knowledge and artistic sensitivity
Skills Required
Technical jewellery making |
Technical plus historical knowledge and artistic sensitivity
Documentation
Basic before/after
Comprehensive assessment and detailed documentation |
Ideal For
Contemporary pieces, daily wear items
Antiques, heirlooms, historically significant pieces
When Repair and Restoration Overlap
In many cases, a single piece might require both repair and restoration services. This hybrid approach is common when dealing with vintage pieces that need both functional fixes and historical preservation
For example, an Art Deco platinum and diamond bracelet might need:
- A repair element: Fixing a broken clasp mechanism for security
- A restoration element: Recreating missing element detailing authentic to the period
Our approach in these cases is to seamlessly integrate both services, using repair techniques where appropriate for structural integrity, while employing restoration methods for elements that affect the piece’s historical character.
Making the Right Choice for Your Jewellery
Deciding between repair and restoration depends on several factors:
Choose Repair When:
Your piece is contemporary (less than 30 years old)
The issue is primarily functional
You’re working with a limited budget
The piece is for daily wear and practicality is key
Historical authenticity is less important than modern durability
Choose Restoration When:
- Your piece is antique or vintage (more than 50 years old)
- The item has significant sentimental or historical value
- You wish to preserve or enhance collector value
- The piece features historical techniques or rare craftsmanship
- You’re willing to invest in preserving authenticity
Why Specialist Knowledge Matters
Not all jewellers are equipped to provide true restoration services. Proper jewellery restoration requires:
- Historical knowledge – Understanding the design principles, construction methods, and materials used in different periods
- Traditional skills – Mastery of techniques that may no longer be widely practiced
- Artistic sensitivity – The ability to match the aesthetic character of original work
- Specialized tools – Including both period-appropriate tools and modern conservation equipment
- Ethical approach – Understanding when to intervene and when to preserve patina or signs of age
- Research capabilities – Resources to identify appropriate models for missing elements
Journal Entry: At the Edge of the Bench — A Closing Thought
Some days at the bench feel like ordinary work. You polish, you reset a stone, you tighten a clasp. But other days, something quietly profound happens. You hold a piece of jewellery that’s travelled through generations, worn on skin, carried through memories, and kept safe in boxes wrapped with stories.
In our Hatton Garden workshop, we see the full spectrum — from modern engagement rings needing a simple claw re-tip to lockets that haven’t been opened since Queen Victoria was on the throne. The difference between repair and restoration is not just a technical one — it’s emotional. One is about function. The other is about honour.
Repairing a contemporary piece means keeping it strong for daily life — the kind of strength that endures love, movement, and time. Restoration, though, is something else entirely. It’s about respect. Respect for materials that have lasted 100 years. Respect for the hands that made it the first time. And above all, respect for the people and stories it carries with it.
One of my favourite projects involved a mid-century sapphire ring — the kind of piece worn every day, not locked in a safe. The stone had softened from wear, the metal band worn down until it was paper-thin. The pattern that once danced across the shank had all but vanished.
We began by remaking the entire shank, forging it in fresh gold, carefully matched in weight and balance. But we didn’t stop there — we hand-engraved the original pattern back onto the new surface, echoing the delicate flourishes that had been nearly erased by time. Line by line, curve by curve, the ring began to whisper again.
It wasn’t about perfection. It was about memory. About giving that pattern — and the love behind it — a second life.
So whether your piece needs a small fix or a complete revival, the goal is always the same: to honour what came before, and to ensure it can be worn, admired, and loved for generations to come.
That’s not just restoration — that’s storytelling in metal and stone.