EXPERT PROCESS NOTE: “Each stainless-steel Cartier watch parts from case, bezel, straps, clasp and buckle requires specialized preparation techniques different from our vermeil restoration process, but our Hatton Garden workshop has the expertise and equipment to handle any Cartier Watches stainless steel plating requirements
service
Cartier Watch Plating Specialists | Vintage Vermeil Restoration Experts
Cartier Watch Plating Specialists
Cartier watches are very popular among trendy people, especially vintage Cartier timepieces which are bought second-hand online through Chrono24, eBay, or dealers. Sometimes vintage Cartier watches are also heirloom pieces from the 1990s, passed down from parents to their children. Usually, these timepieces have their plating fading over years – particularly those very stylish vintage Cartier models. Therefore, many customers have been using our re-plating Cartier watch service over the years.
Our London workshop has extensive experience with Cartier brand items, from jewellery to Cartier watch gold plating and re-plating restoration. We have cherished and repaired Cartier items and restored Cartier watch case plating. It’s important to understand that the market value of those Cartier watches includes not only their monetary value but also their aesthetic appeal, which is timeless through the years and generations.
Jewellery Watch Repairs and Restoration is the expert for plating Tank Must, Tank Vermeil, Cartier Watch Vendome Trinity and 21 Must models.
The Cartier French House faced significant market challenges and redirection views. The rising popularity of quartz technology from Japan with Seiko taking the all quartz game and offering consumers more affordable and very precise timepieces, while gold prices had dramatically increased due to the inflation. Their traditional manual-wind gold watches in 18k yellow gold became expensive to produce and less appealing to modern buyers.
Responding to these market pressures, Cartier introduced the Les Must de Cartier collection in 1977. This strategic launch targeted broader demographics with accessible luxury pricing. The company implemented cost-effective solutions including ETA mechanical movements, rebranded Cartier 78-1 which is ETA Cal. 2512 – 1 and eventually their own quartz movements. Most importantly, they replaced solid gold cases with vermeil construction – sterling silver cases with thick gold plating.
Responding to these market pressures, Cartier introduced the Les Must de Cartier collection in 1977. This strategic launch targeted broader demographics with accessible luxury pricing. The company implemented cost-effective solutions including ETA mechanical movements, rebranded Cartier 78-1 which is ETA Cal. 2512 – 1 and eventually their own quartz movements. Most importantly, they replaced solid gold cases with vermeil construction – sterling silver cases with thick gold plating.
The Tank Must became particularly successful with its distinctive monochrome dial offerings. Starting with red dials, the collection expanded through blue and black variants before introducing a complete colour spectrum. This vermeil construction strategy allowed Cartier to maintain their luxury aesthetic while reaching younger consumers and those seeking accessible prestige.
This manufacturing approach explains why numerous vintage Cartier timepieces from this era feature sterling silver bases with substantial 18k gold plating at 20 microns thickness – making them ideal candidates for professional restoration services today.
This content and study, along with our historical approach, reflects our experience and learning curve through the types of watches we have come across. Our role is to provide as much information as possible. The restoration involves restoring the case based on its original specifications. This subject only applies to certain models – the vastness and rich Cartier history is complex and full of information. Our respect and admiration for the Cartier brand drives us to go beyond the limits of case restoration.
Vintage Cartier Watches Types
What is Vermeil?
| Property | Details |
|---|---|
| Definition | Gold plating of more than 5 microns on sterling silver 925% |
| Silver Base Requirement | Must be composed of 92.5% silver—which is quite pure |
| Hallmark | Stamped 925 silver with hallmarks |
| Material Quality | More noble material than various types of gold-plated jewellery |
| Durability | More durable than standard gold plating |
| Advantages | Tarnish-resistant, silver does not oxidize |
| Longevity | Guaranteed to last nearly a lifetime and requires maintenance to retain its shine |
Cartier's
Smart Strategy
It was a smart move from Cartier to make those beautiful timepieces, as there were no modern watches using silver and gold plating at such thickness at the time. The word “vermeil” comes from French, meaning a brilliant red colour, referencing the rich golden appearance achieved through this process. But also is the appealing word which also rhymes with “merveille” (marvel).
Plating Specifications by Model Type
| Model Type | Case Material | Plating Thickness | Recommended Re-Plating Restoration | Special Requirements |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tank Vermeil | 925 Silver | 20 microns | 20 microns | Silver-specific preparation |
| Tank Must | 925 Silver | 20 microns | 20 microns | Silver base treatment |
| Vendome | 925 Silver | 20 microns | 20 microns | Silver base, curved case masking |
| 21 Must | 925 Silver | 20 microns | 20 microns | Selective plating areas |
Why 925 Silver Base Matters
Historical Manufacturing Context:
- Post-1977 quartz revolution strategy
- Cost-effective luxury positioning
- Maintained Cartier aesthetic at accessible price point
- “Vermeil” construction silver case with high layer of gold plating during electroplating process became Cartier standard for popular models
Technical Plating Considerations:
- Silver base requires specific preparation – different from stainless steel
- 20-micron thickness – much thicker than standard jewellery plating (1-2.5 microns), vermeil is used in jewellery (silver 925 with 5 microns gold plating)
- Specefic plating solutions needed for proper adhesion
- Micron plating for anti-tarnish which creates special treatments
UNDERSTANDING THE HALLMARKS OF CARTIER WATCH CASES
The hallmarks on your Cartier piece indicate important information about its authenticity, origin, and materials:
CARTIER HALLMARKS ON VINTAGE WATCHES
Section | Marking | Meaning |
Top Section | Cartier Paris | Must de Cartier line from Cartier’s Paris collection |
Middle Section | 925 | Case made of sterling silver (92.5%) – Most Must de Cartier watches from the 1980s–1990s were silver with heavy gold plating |
Symbols (Hallmarks) | Flower hallmark | French silver hallmark (guarantee symbol used for export or French assay office) |
Head in octagon | French import/export or silver control mark | |
Oval with initials (often “CR” or similar) | Cartier branding punch | |
ARGENT PLAQUE OR G 20 M | ARGENT | French for silver |
PLAQUE OR G | Gold-plated (typically 18k or 20-micron thick) | |
20 M | 20 microns of gold thickness — a high-quality gold plating standard for luxury timepieces | |
Bottom Section | SWISS | Watch was manufactured in Switzerland |
Triangle with “P” inside | Internal quality control symbol or case maker’s mark | |
Serial Number | 32434 22 |
SO MANY CARTIER MODELS WE HAVE Re-Plated
CARTIER VENDOME TRINITY – ROUND CASE MODELS
The Cartier Vendome Trinity features many models, some rarer than others. The model has a round case with 20 microns plating and sterling silver construction.
Feature | Description |
Case Design | Round case with quartz movement when based in silver metal |
Model Variations | Trinity models with different dial variations |
Base Material | Sterling silver base (925) with thick gold plating (20 microns) |
Dial Style | Classic Roman numeral dials |
KEY FEATURES OF CARTIER VENDOME WATCHES
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Case Design | Round case with quartz movement when based in silver metal |
| Model Variations | Trinity models with different dial variations |
| Base Material | Sterling silver base (925) with thick gold plating (20 microns) |
| Dial Style | Classic Roman numeral dials |
CARTIER VENDOME MODELS WE RE-PLATE (18k Gold plate)
1. CARTIER VENDÔME (ROUND CASE, GOLD-PLATED SILVER, QUARTZ)
The Vendôme line is known for its round case design in vermeil (gold-plated sterling silver)
| Feature | Specification |
|---|---|
| Case Design | Round case design (unlike the Tank's rectangular shape) |
| Movement | Quartz movement for precision and low maintenance |
| Base Material | Sterling silver base (925) with thick gold plating (20 microns) |
| Dial Options | Classic Roman numeral dials or Arabic numeral |
POPULAR VENDÔME MODELS
| Model | Details |
|---|---|
| Cartier Vendôme 24mm | Ref. W650025I / W650015I |
| Case | Gold-plated 925 case (vermeil |
| Dial | White guilloché dial with Roman numerals |
| Movement | Quartz movement |
Complete with authentic Cartier leather strap and lovely Cartier buckle in brass which is gold plated.
2. CARTIER TRINITY (ROUND CASE, GOLD-PLATED SILVER, RARE MODELS)
The Trinity collection is famous for its interlocking rings, but Cartier released Trinity watches to complement the jewellery line, creating a matching “parure.” These rare models feature round cases in vermeil construction:
| Model Type | Description |
|---|---|
| Cartier Trinity Ronde | Discontinued, Vintage |
| Case | Round case in gold-plated silver (vermeil) |
| Dial Features | Some have colorful lacquer dials (similar to Must de Cartier) |
| Strap | Often paired with leather strap and buckle |
3. MUST DE CARTIER RONDE
The Must de Cartier Ronde in sterling silver with gold plating was part of Cartier’s affordable luxury line introduced in the late 1970s and produced through the 1980s and early 1990s.
Key Production Periods:
- 1980s–Early 1990s: The Ronde (round case) version became popular in this era, often paired with a leather strap or gold-plated bracelet
- Discontinued: By the mid-to-late 1990s, Cartier phased out many Must models in favour of newer collections
Identifying Vintage Must de Cartier Ronde Watches:
- Hallmarks: Look for “Must de Cartier” on the dial and “925” (sterling silver) + gold-plated markings on the case
- Caseback: Often engraved with “Must de Cartier,” “Plaqué Or” (gold-plated), and “Swiss Made”
MUST DE CARTIER RONDE SPECIFICATIONS
Component | Specification |
Case Material | Sterling silver (925) with gold plating |
Case Shape | Round (Ronde) |
Production Period | Late 1970s – Early 1990s |
Movement | Quartz |
Dial Markings | “Must de Cartier” inscription |
Caseback Markings | “Must de Cartier,” “Plaqué Or,” “Swiss Made” |
Strap Options | Leather strap or gold-plated bracelet |
Plating Thickness | 20 microns (vermeil standard) |
CARTIER TRINITY 1990S VERMEIL MODELS
VENDÔME VS TRINITY COMPARISON
VENDOME VS TRINITY COMPARISON
| Feature | Cartier Vendôme | Cartier Trinity (Round Case) |
| Case Shape | Round | Round (some models) |
| Material | Vermeil (gold-plated silver) | Vermeil |
| Plating | 20 microns gold | Varies (some up to 20 microns) |
| Dials | Classic Roman numerals | Some colorful/unique designs |
| Availability | Easier to find | Rare, mostly vintage |
| Price Range | Mid-range | Higher (vintage/collector’s item) |
VINTAGE MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME TRINITY SPECIFICATIONS
MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME TRINITY (VERMEIL) – 30MM
Component | Specification |
Case | Solid 925 silver with 20 micron 18kt gold plating (vermeil) |
Movement | Swiss quartz |
Dial | Trinity design with Roman numerals; blued steel hands, sapphire cabochon crown |
Size | Around 30mm (also exists in smaller sizes like 24-26mm) |
Strap | Vintage leather with Cartier buckle |
Condition Notes | Typical light surface wear, genuine gold plating may chip over time—this is normal due to the thickness |
MUST DE CARTIER VENDÔME TRINITY – 24MM OR 26MM VERMEIL
24-26MM TRINITY SPECIFICATIONS
Component | Specification |
Case | Sterling silver + 20 microns gold plating |
Movement | Quartz Cal. 90 or 81 |
Dial | Smaller round Trinity style with Roman numerals |
Size | Elegant for smaller wrists or discreet style preference |
DIAL VARIATIONS IN VINTAGE CARTIER
Dial Type | Variations |
Monochrome colours | Red, blue, black, burgundy |
Classic colours | Cream/champagne |
Combinations | Two-tone combinations |
Numerals | Roman numeral variations |
Alternative numerals | Arabic numeral models |
we got featured in Cartier Watch Plating
Process Note: Each dial type requires removal from movement and careful protection in small container apart as only case, crown, screw and buckles are re-plated or gold plated during the plating process
WHAT IS OUR GOLD PLATING PROCESS FOR CARTIER WATCHES?
Those Cartier watches feature distinctive design elements that require specialized knowledge when it comes to dismantling:
MAIN DISMANTLING PROCESS
Process Step | Description | ||
|---|---|---|---|
Case Opening | Unscrew Cartier watch case for taking apart quartz or winding mechanism as most of those watches are using this type of movement | ||
Dial Removal | Cartier signature Roman numerals and railway minute tracks or Trinity dial Cartier dial removal | ||
Crystal Removal | Removing crystal from case during plating process any of the Cartier that we re-plate | ||
Pre-Plating Preparation | Maintaining the iconic Cartier case aesthetic and proportions as the watch is getting polished and cleaned before dipping in electroplater on round case |
TANK SERIES SPECIFIC CHALLENGES
Complex Bracelet Designs
Buckle Handling
Delicate Mechanisms
Precision Required
Corner Work
Complex Bracelet Designs
Cartier Complex bracelet designs with integrated with pins on Tank Series
Buckle Handling
We carefully handle buckles and pins during dismantlement process,
Delicate Mechanisms
The Tank series often features delicate buckles with intricate mechanisms
Precision Required
The pins used in these buckles are typically small and require precise dexterity by our watchmaker
Corner Work
Tank electroplated Collection – Classic rectangular cases requiring precise corner polishing and then plating
Quality Standards
MARKET APPEAL AND RESTORATION VALUE
OUR PROFESSIONAL GOLD PLATING APPROACH
Preservation of original Cartier casing proportions and details especially when your Cartier get polished and plated.
• Understanding of historical fabrication methods
• 925 sterling silver surface preparation for plating
• 20-micron gold thickness
• Colour-matching to original Cartier gold tones
WHY MUST DE CARTIER
MODELS ARE WORTH RE-PLATING
Cartier Watch Re-plating Services
Why Cartier Models Are Worth Re-plating
Our Gold Plating Services: Key Advantages
Timeless Design
Cartier watches feature iconic, timeless designs that remain elegant and relevant across decades. Re-plating preserves these classic aesthetics for future generations.
Investment Value
Maintaining your Cartier watch through professional re-plating protects and enhances its long-term investment value and collectibility.
Heritage Preservation
Each Cartier timepiece represents centuries of watchmaking excellence. Re-plating ensures this heritage continues to shine brilliantly.
Perfect Restoration Candidates
Cartier models are ideal for professional restoration to original specifications, bringing back their original luxury appearance.
Resale Enhancement
Re-plating makes your Cartier watch appear newer and more pristine, significantly improving its appeal and value for resale.
Authenticity Verification
Our expert team can verify the authenticity of your Cartier watch during the re-plating process, ensuring genuine restoration.
Our Gold Plating Services: Key Advantages
Professional Cartier Re-plating Services
We restore the timeless and reliable design characteristics that make Cartier watches instantly recognizable and eternally elegant.
More affordable restoration costs due to our vermeil plating process and independent workshop operations, without compromising on quality.
We thoroughly check and verify the authenticity of your Cartier watch before beginning any restoration work, ensuring genuine pieces only.
Our expert craftsmen specialize in restoring Cartier watches to their original factory specifications using premium materials and techniques.
Perfect for sellers who want their Cartier watch to appear newer and more attractive to potential buyers, maximizing resale value.
MAXIMUM GOLD PLATING (20 MICRONS) AVAILABLE FOR Cartier
What Makes Us Different?
Our workshop specializes in re-plating these distinctive Cartier models to their original vermeil specificationsmaintaining the authentic 20-micron gold plating thickness that makes these timepieces so desirable.
STAINLESS STEEL CARTIER WATCH PLATING SERVICE
CAN WE PLATE STAINLESS STEEL CARTIER WATCH?
Yes, we do but it’s a completely different process and we have done so many from bezel, to all case and strap.
We take apart the all watch or the part that you would like to gold and it gets polishing, cleaning and a preparation is applied. It’s a complicated task but nothing is impossible for JWWRR, JWW&R AKA Jewellery Watch Repairs and Restoration London.
STAINLESS STEEL PLATING PROCESS
STAINLESS STEEL CARTIER MODELS WE SERVICE
Popular Stainless Steel Models that we have experience in Gold Plating:
- Tank Solo – Modern stainless steel Tank models
- Santos de Cartier – Square case stainless steel models
- Panthère de Cartier – Stainless steel bracelet models
- Ballon Bleu – Round stainless steel cases
- Roadster – Tonneau-shaped stainless steel models
- Pasha – Round stainless steel cases with distinctive design
BESPOKE CARTIER PLATING COLOUR OPTIONS
CARTIER PLATING COLOUR SERVICES
- Tank Must - Custom colours on vermeil base
- Tank Vermeil - Alternative finish options
- Vendome Trinity - Bespoke colour transformations
- Vendome Trinity - Bespoke colour transformations
- Must Ronde - Round case colour customization
CARTIER PLATING PROCESS & SPECIFICATIONS
Our Cartier Stainsteel Porfolio
Do You Need Any Help?
Black DLC & PVD FOR CARTIER WATCH
Black Black your Cartier timepiece with advanced black coating technology. Our professional DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) and PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) services provide exceptional durability and a distinctive matte black finish.
Why Choose Black Coating?
- Black DLC and PVD coatings offer superior scratch resistance compared to traditional plating, making them ideal for daily wear. The deep black finish gives vintage and modern Cartier watches a contemporary, stealth appearance whilst maintaining the original case proportions and details.
- Technical Benefits:Exceptional hardness and scratch resistance,Corrosion protection, Maintains precise case dimensions, Durable matte black finish, Great and suitable for stainless steel Cartier models
- Popular Models: Black coating works particularly well on Cartier Santos, Tank, and Roadster models, creating a modern interpretation of these classic designs.
- Professional Application Our coating process requires complete case disassembly and specialised preparation to ensure proper adhesion and uniform coverage. The result is a perfect customisation that combines Cartier’s timeless design with cutting-edge surface technology and will be unique especially if you like black colour which fits everything..
SECURE WATCH SHIPPING TO OUR WORKSHOP
CARTIER WATCH PLATING NEAR YOU
CARTIER WATCH PLATING SPECIALISTS
Looking for “Cartier watch plating near me”? At Jewellery Watch Repairs and Restoration London, we’re the UK’s premier specialists for Cartier watch plating in multiple finishes and colors.
- Our London Hatton Garden workshop, with years of established reputation, has provided bespoke Cartier plating services for clients locally across the UK, mainland Europe, and internationally.
- Whether you own a vintage Must de Cartier or modern stainless steel model, our watch treatment surface can restore your Cartier's original beauty or create modern bespoke uniqueness.
- Custom colour options available for unique personalization and bespoke luxury enhancement of your timepiece.
- Electroplating expertise with specialized techniques for both vintage and contemporary Cartier models.
- Black DLC Coating for any Models
When sending high-value Cartier watches, Royal Mail Special Delivery is the preferred choice for security and peace of mind. Designed for valuable timepieces like vintage Cartier watches, it offers:
- Maximum Security – Tracked and signed-for delivery with special insurance up to £2,500
- Comprehensive Insurance – Full protection against loss or damage
- Next Day Delivery by 1pm – Fast, guaranteed delivery to our London workshop
- Peace of Mind – Industry-trusted service used by watchmakers nationwide
CARTIER-SPECIFIC SERVICE DETAILS
What Makes Our Cartier Plating Special:
- Cartier expertise - Specialized knowledge of all Cartier models
- Original specifications - Maintain authentic Cartier proportions
- Custom colours - Bespoke finishes beyond traditional gold
- Component masking - Precise plating of selected areas only
- Quality guarantee - Professional results backed by warranty
- Service Areas for Cartier Plating:
• London Hatton Garden – Workshop location for Cartier specialists • UK Nationwide – Insured collection and delivery • International – Worldwide shipping for Cartier watch plating.
Frequently Asked Questions On Cartier Watch Plating?
How much does it cost to gold plate my Cartier watch?
The cost depends on the current price of gold and the specific type of Cartier watch requiring plating. The surface area of the watch is crucial in determining the amount of gold solution needed, as each Cartier watch has different dimensions. Several preparatory steps must also be considered, including polishing and cleaning the case.
Why is vermeil important for vintage Cartier watches?
Vermeil is the standard specification Cartier used when plating these watches, featuring 20 microns of gold plating over a sterling silver base. This substantial plating thickness makes vintage Cartier watches ideal candidates for professional restoration and re-plating services.
Do you clean and polish the case and buckle?
Yes, we do. To achieve the best plating results, both the case and buckle must be in immaculate condition. All metal surfaces, particularly the sterling silver base on Cartier vermeil watches, need to be properly prepared before plating.
Can you restore the original gold plating on my vintage Cartier Tank Must?
Yes, we can restore the original plating. We respect Cartier’s specifications and use 18k gold solution to match the original 20-micron plating thickness that Cartier applied to these vermeil watches.
How much does it cost to polish my Cartier watch?
If we are plating the watch, we do not charge separately for case cleaning and polishing as these are included in the plating service.
How thick was the original 18k gold plating on vintage Cartier watches?
Vintage Cartier watches were gold plated to 20 microns thickness. This substantial plating specification was part of Cartier’s vermeil construction, where 18k gold was applied over a sterling silver base, creating the luxury finish these timepieces are known for.
Can you re-plate my Cartier in a different colour than original?
Yes, of course. There’s a French saying: “les goûts et les couleurs ne se discutent pas” (tastes and colours are not to be argued about). We’ve had clients in the past who, for instance, were not happy with their original gold-plated Cartier Trinity Must Ref 2735, as the gold colour was not trendy a few years back, so we re-plated it in rhodium. We offer rose gold colour, platinum colour, and palladium finishes.
How long does it take? What's the turnaround for plating?
It’s important to understand that this is not a small job, as the watch must be fully dismantled for us to process the work properly. We must take the watch completely apart. We take our time to ensure we can deliver exceptional restoration work. The typical turnaround for plating is one week.
What's the difference between Cartier Plating Restoration and Cartier Watch Case Restoration?
Cartier plating restoration involves re-creating the vermeil construction on the case and buckle of vintage watches that have faded over the years.
Case restoration, however, is more comprehensive than just polishing and cleaning. Over time, metal is actually lost from the case and potentially the buckle through wear. Case restoration may involve rebuilding missing metal using laser-welder – whether silver, gold, or stainless steel – and re-making angles, flattening surfaces that are no longer flat, and restoring the original case profile and dimensions. This is an art, a lot of work is involved.
I'm buying a vintage Cartier on eBay and I'm not sure if it's real. Can you check it to make sure the watch is authentic before I restore it?
We can definitely assess it and confirm that the Cartier is genuine. We have the experience and expertise to authenticate vintage Cartier watches.
It’s important to understand that this is not a small job, as the watch must be fully dismantled for us to process the work properly. We must take the watch completely apart. We take our time to ensure we can deliver exceptional restoration work.
My vintage Tank Cartier is not working, but I like it so much. What shall I do?
Don’t panic and get in touch with JWRR, or book an appointment. We can definitely repair or service any vintage model, from quartz movements to winding mechanisms. We can source parts or fit new movements and provide full restoration, which includes movement repair or servicing, case restoration, and plating the case.
Do you offer PVD and DLC coating for Cartier watches? And how long does it take?
Yes, we do offer both services. It takes about 3 weeks. The watch needs to be dismantled as well as polished and cleaned. It is the hardest part of the surface treatment process for the watch. Most of that time is spent on preparation – the actual coating only takes a few hours.
Specializing exclusively in Cartier timepieces – from vintage vermeil restoration to modern stainless steel plating in any colour, our bespoke plating services offer traditional gold, elegant pink rose gold, or striking black PVD/DLC finishes for any Cartier model.
Contact Us
To get your Cartier professionally plated or re-plated in any finish you desire! Whatever custom colour or surface treatment you wish, we will be delighted to expertly care for your timepiece
Address
JWRR
Unit 2, 1-2 Kirby St, London EC1N 8TS
mail@jewellerywatchrepairsandrestoration-london.co.uk
Phone
+4420 3633 1531